Thursday, 20 July 2017

Fashion Makes Sense LAB - FASHIONCLASH Festival 2017

Does Fashion Make Sense?
The Fashion Makes Sense LAB was especially designed and curated for this edition containing an exposition, designer market, performances, films, workshops and fashion talks. The LAB space and scenographt is designed in cooperation with Studio Stad, who is also responsible for the design of the Forza Fashion House and all previous editions of FASHIONCLASH Festival since 2011.

In relationship to the central theme ‘Fashion Makes Sense’ a curated selection of work will be exposed. In the LAB one could explore the extraordinary installations and presentations of Pleun van Dijk, Floriane Misslin, Olle Lundin, M.A.F. van der Vloed, Jo Cope, Djeli, Sepideh Ahadi, Sensewear and Daan Couzijn. Furthermore there was a live sewing studio by slowFASHIONfast from Bosnia and Herzegovina, presentation and workshop from TextileLab Amsterdam and interactive performance by Mami Izumi, Iris Woutera and the dance performance by LAGOM by MIJ x Mila Halizova.
The designer market offered a unique experience where one can meet new designers and obtain one of a kind clothing, jewellery and accessories by LUDUS, LOV-S, Nous Avons, Soolista, Joelle Boers, JEN MM DSGN and many more.
Sunday 2 July was dedicated to dialogues and encounters; the Fashion Talks. Moderated by Saskia van Stein, artistic director at Bureau Europa, a stage was given to a several festival participants and professionals such as Carolyn Mair and Roosmarie Ruigrok (Clean&Unique) to engage in the discussion. Here the audience, designers and more debating about the festival’s theme: (Does) Fashion Makes Sense.
ANDRAHANDARICstudio


Vere van Hal


Wednesday, 19 July 2017

Boaz van Doornik - Amsterdam Fashion Week

Boaz van Doornik presented his new men’s collection LEAF, during his debut at the 27th edition of the Mercedes-Benz FashionWeek Amsterdam. The inspiration for LEAF is in line with his award-winning graduate collection ‘Monumental Memories’, which was all about his father, the nature and beautiful childhood memories.

The basis of the LEAF collection was inspired by a few dried oak leaves that Van Doornik found at home, crushed between the pages of a book.
He told Fashionweek.nl: “I do remember placing them in the book, but I totally forgot about them. When I found them, it was like finding a treasure! It was winter and there were no leaves on the ground anywhere. I loved the old leaves, weathered by the ravages of time.”
Finding these leaves took him back to his childhood and the amount of leaves he used to pick up during the forest walks he made with his father. Especially the ‘propellers’, that every kid loved to play with, revived Van Doorniks fascination for shapes and structures of leaves and seeds.

http://www.boazvandoornik.com

Images: brankopopovicblog, source fashionweek.nl

Liesbeth Sterkenburg - Amsterdam Fashion Week

Liesbeth Sterkenburg, the Artez 2016 graduate, had a promising start with her first solo show at Mercedes-Benz FashionWeek Amsterdam. At the previous edition of Amsterdam FashionWeek, she took part in Beauty and the Beast, a Disney-supported collection that included one of her ensembles, and several of her designs appeared in Future Generation.
For her new collection NEWSTREET EXPO she got inspired by retro hip-hop and '70s-streetwear.

http://www.liesbethsterkenburg.com

All images are by brankopopovicblog

RECONSTRUCT

RECONSTRUCT collective presented their SS 2018 collection at Amsterdam Fashion Week.
The set design and choreography was created in cooperation with Studio Dennis Vanderbroeck.

RECONSTRUCT is a collective of six female designers who graduated in 2015-2016. After graduating from WDKA in Rotterdam, Laura Aanen, Zara Asmail, Alyssa Groeneveld, Kim Kivits, Michelle Lievaart and Sanne Verkleij decided to join forces and together shake up and conquer the fashion world.

RECONSTRUCT represents change and is out to redefine the fashion system. For the collective, the current system is outdated and in need of renovation. They presented their first joint collection at the 26th edition of Mercedes-Benz FashionWeek Amsterdam, which included something from each individual yet still represented a coherent, innovative look. The collective was inspired by the famous art historian, whose ideas and process they’ve applied to their own collection.

http://www.reconstruct.nl

All images by brankopopovicblog

Klaudia Stavreva - Amsterdam Fashion Week

One of the coolest shows this year at Amsterdam Fashion Week was by Klaudia Stavreva who showed a personal collection. Her father opened the show, followed by a very simple yet fresh and effective choreography; needless to say a very strong cast of models.

Recently graduated from the ArtEZ Fashion Masters, the German born designer with Macedonian origin presented her collection BOSSTVRVA TEIL, which is a follow up to her master collection.
The presentation was enriched by a video-clip from her childhood. In this video, Klaudia and her sister put on their fathers HUGO BOSS suit to play dress up.

"I was inspired by the Sworn Virgins in Albania. They're women who live men's lives. They take a vow never to marry or have children, so that they (for instance because of a shortage of men in the family) can work to support the family. While I was doing this research, I suddenly thought about how my sister and I used to dress up in our father's BOSS suits, so I decided to combine the two stories together." 

https://www.instagram.com/stavrevakreator/ 

All images by brankopopovicblog

Atelier. by Lotte van Dijk

Atelier. by Lotte van Dijk at Amsterdam Fashion Week

One of the highlights this year at Amsterdam Fashion Week this summer was the collection by Atelier. , label by talented designer Lotte van Dijk. 

After completing her fashion master's programme at ArtEZ she got noticed by being one of the finalitsts at Hyères Festival 2017.
In her work she combines art and clothing and produces all of her designs herself. She works like an artist treating each garment as a piece of art. All of her garments are beautiful in their own way and like wearable pieces of art.

“By painting on fabric and draping with the result, you keep the strength of the illustration and immediately see the impact of the painting on the silhouette - the relationship is clear, as opposed to a two dimensional print, developed independently.” 


Find more about Atelier. http://atelier.today

All pictures are by brankopopovicblog

Lichting 2017

Sarah Bruylant
On Friday evening, July 14 the ArtEZ Institute of the Artsgraduate Lizzy Stuyfzand won the Lighting 2017 main award.
In a spectacular catwalk show, 14 fashion graduates presented their graduation collections to the audience of Amsterdam Fashion Week.
Lizzy won the Lighting 2017 Award worth € 10,000 made possible by the Meester Koetsier Foundation. The Audience Favorite Award, powered by Ten Cate, chosen by a select group of fashion professionals in the audience, went to AMFI graduate Sarah Bruylant. She won a prize worth € 3,000.

Next to the winners the mention it is worth to congratulate all finalists who showed that there is many talent in The Netherlands.

Lichting is an initiative of HTNK and FashionWeek Netherlands, Lichting was launched in 2007 and each year the best graduate collection of the country gets awarded.  Each school out of seven Dutch fashion academies sends out two graduates, who get to show selection of five outfits on the runway during Amsterdam Fashion Week. Prior to the show, they have to present and defend their work in front of an international jury, which included Zowie Broach (Head of Fashion at Royal College of Art in London), Floor Kolen (Fashion designer and 2010 Lichting finalist), Federico Poletti (Editor, curator and consultant) and Philippe Pourhashemi (consultant, stylsit and writer for various magazine).

http://www.lichting.nl
Lizzy Stuyfzand

Monday, 17 July 2017

Barbara Langendijk x Noon Passama

Barbara Langendijk x Noon Passama at Amsterdam Fashion Week presented a beautiful collection with a performance developed in collaboration with House of Makers.

Barbara Langendijk x Noon Passama met during their studies at the ArtEZ Fashion Masters. Barbara designs clothing and Noon is a jewellery designer. For this collaboration they were inspired by traditional smocking and gathering.
"Today's presentation is inspired by the people who use to wear a smocked garment, called the 'smock frock', which historically were a group pf tough men, shepherds and wagonists. Together with interdisciplinary arts company House of Makers, we developed a scene in which the audience and the models are placed in a context inspired by the shepherds and wagonists. However, in a play on the historical context, the shepherds are replaced by the models, and the audience is herded by them, confined and forced to view them from an opposite position than is usual for a fashion show."


www.barbaralangendijk.com
www.noonpassama.com

Photography by brankopopovicblog

'My Paper Crown' - Bas Kosters

Festive presentation of 'My Paper Crown' collectionby Bas Kosters at the opening night of Amsterdam Fashion Week.
With this show he expressed his love for humanity and creativity.

 'Everyone deserves a fair chance in life'.

The show was staged as a festive 'Carrot Day' played by actors from the Toneelgezelschap Dood Paard. Meanwhile Bas Kosters himself sitting on a pile of patatoes. By peeling the patatoes he overlooked the stage and audience expressing the joy for the simple things in life.


www.baskosters.com


M.E.N. - Amsterdam Fashion Week

Strong debut by the new fashion brand M.E.N., a collective by three talented Dutch fashion designers Maartje Janse, Elysanne Schuurman and Nikki Duijst. The name M.E.N. is representing each of the designers' name first letter.

With their collaborative project they have managed to merge all their talents into a promising first collection ‘ES TUT MIR LEID! Ich habe mich verwählt’ . In addition they made sustainable choices by using left-over materials from other designers such as
Ann Demeulemeester, A.F. Vandevorst, Dries van Noten and Walter van Beirendonck.

The show started with a team of rugby players entering the runway and laying out a green 'grass' carpet, representing their quest to take traditional male and female clothing codes out of their context.

Pictures by Team Peter Stigter
www.studiomen.nl

NIKA TOM - FASHIONCLASH Festival 2017

Meet Nika Čuić, the designer behind NIKA TOM, from Zagreb, Croatia. She is 26 years old and she holds a degree in Fashion Design and Costumography, and also economics. What she loves the most about being a fashion designer, is that she can be herself. She presented her latest collection 'Peripeteies' at FASHIONCLASH Festival in Maastricht.

Can you tell us something about the project you will present at the FASHIONCLASH Festival? What do you try to communicate with your project?
The project I will present is named 'Peripeteies'. It deals with balance between reality and the inner one made in our thoughts and felt through emotions. The question is what is real and how to delineate it from the mind of a self and is this real just a confirmation of our expectations and beliefs. On the other hand, the mind is living its own reality which is created by interconnectedness of yourself with lived experience, it is a gateway between the finite and ad infinitum. Letting the mind communicate with the reality enables a possibility to create its own reality which is then known only to ourselves. The mean is to represent both worlds, many realities on the same piece and let them connect together. Since the mind of oneself is hard to be grasped with words and expressions, my goal is to express it through clothing and in that way to explore the possibility of functionality of this balance.

What does your brand represent?
My brand NIKA TOM represent the extension of myself. First of all, TOM stands for my mothers shortened family. To continue, my work represents me, respectively, my mind, feelings, thoughts and everything that an individual can't describe with words. I have always had a need to express that in one way and, by set of circumstances, had always been surrounded with a sewing machine, fabrics and all sorts of materials helped me to achieve that.

What are so far your main achievements in your career?
Ihave participated in lots of shows and exhibitions during two years period, and one of the most notable was Berlin Alternative Fashion Week. I was also a part of the Designers Profile in the Mays issue of British Vogue- page designed with the intention of showcasing a range of upcoming designers.

What are your biggest struggles as a young designer/artist?
Lack of financial resources, technology, materials.

How would you define fashion?
I wouldn’t really define it. Every individual speaks and does for himself, respectively, creates something which he or she finds accurate. You can really communicate with clothing, and I think that is the goal here - to speak out.

What fascinates/inspires you and why?
Literally everything! I always have a different inspiration, but there always has to be a reason and connection why did it happen. These inspirations are often connected with my personality, surroundings, everyday situations, emotions, people, art , music…

Why have you decided to participate at FASHIONCLASH Festival?
I decided to participate at FASHIONCLASH Festival because it focuses on supporting emerging young designers and gives them the opportunity to experiment with fashion and create something unconventional.

Does fashion makes sense to you?
Most of the time not, because it had gone to extremes of consumerism, rapidly changeable trends and uselessness. On the other hand, communicating with it, expressing yourself, making something different, long-lasting and with good quality does make a lot of sense.

What are your thoughts on making ‘fashion’ more environmentally-friendly?
I think every individual also has to think and work towards sustainability as much as he or she can for the benefit of the unity.
What are your thoughts on the senses in relation to the human body? Clothing is in a close relation to the human body because of its tangibility. Body feels the fabric and decides whether it will accept it or not. When they match, they become one. Clothing and fabrics shape the body reacting differently on each person. Clothing serves the body's appearance and also helps a person to express themselves.

Instagram: www.instagram.com/nikatom_ 

Sunday, 16 July 2017

Schepers Bosman SS2018 - Amsterdam Fashion Week

On Saturday the 15th of July 2017, the designer duo Schepers Bosman presented their cool new collection at Mercedes-Benz FashionWeek Amsterdam.
The third collection of the duo, consisting the designers Sanne Schepers and Anne Bosman, is a game of concepts such as 'familiar, normal, ordinary' and an assembly of stereotypical garments.

With the artist Robert Rauschenberg as a style icon, Schepers Bosman collects a wardrobe of timeless clothes. This season, they present a series of detailed items and use them as building blocks to form an explosion of shape and color. Through assembly techniques inspired by the work of sculptor John Chamberlain, they take widely-known garments out of their context and translate them into spatial expressionistic images. They play with concepts like 'familiar, normal and ordinary.

Revaluation of the garment Schepers Bosman has a joint vision: the revaluation of the garment.  

"We find that clothes and the craftsmanship has lowered in respect these days. By removing clothes and fashion from their context and placing them on a higher level, we want to create a new awareness. Develop products that are accepted as paintings or graphic art, without losing the original function. Our dream: Create clothes that you would like to wear and you want to watch. Hereby we challenge ourselves to seek for exclusivity within the mass. "


Schepers Bosman is a creative collaboration between Sanne Schepers (1989) and Anne Bosman (1988). Both graduated with cum laude in 2011 at ArtEZ, the Institute of the Arts Arnhem, BA Fashion Design. Schepers continued her studies at the Institute Français de la Mode (IFM) Paris, MA Fashion Design. Bosman graduated from Central Saint Martins in London, MA Menswear Fashion Design in 2014. In recent years, Schepers won the G-Star Raw Talent Award and Bosman two H&M Design Awards.

www.schepersbosman.com 
Instagram: www.instagram.com/schepersbosman/

Photography: Team Peter Stigter

Friday, 14 July 2017

Das Leben am Haverkamp opened Amsterdam Fashion Week

Dutch fashion collective Das Leben Am Haverkamp opened the  Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam on Thursday evening.
Once again they surprized the audience by expressing their joint vision on contemporary fashion, questioning the fenomenon of fashion. What is fashion is you take away the functionality of clothes?
A cast of models representing 'normal' people and diversity of the human body, carried 2D mostly plastic see-through creations in hands facing the audience. 

Anouk van Klaveren (1991), Christa van der Meer (1988), Dewi Bekker (1990) and Gino Anthonisse (1988) – joined forces and formed the collective Das Leben am Haverkamp after graduating from the Royal Academy of Art, The Hague. Their unconventional approach to design and fashion results in thought-provoking, unpolished work, often inspired by alter egos, boyhood and floral curtains. New, uncharted territory is explored during the inventive performances and presentations of Das Leben am Haverkamp. All the members have their individual label, and present it collectively.

 http://www.daslebenamhaverkamp.com

* images by brankopopovicblog, at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam


Wednesday, 12 July 2017

Rico Berger - FASHIONCLASH Festival 2017

Rico Berger is a German fashion designer currently based in Stockholm, Sweden. He graduated from the University of Arts and Design Burg Giebichenstein in Halle, Germany and consequently began working as a designer for kidswear at H&M. He presented his menswear collection “Dieter´s Diary” at FASHIONCLASH Festival.

Can you tell us something about the project you presented at the FASHIONCLASH Festival? My project “Dieter´s Diary” is based on a short novel I wrote 2 years ago. The protagonist Dieter grows up in a white, clean and technological future and feels like not fitting in at all. After running away from home, he finds a group of outcasts that use the advanced technology to create their own walking city where colors collide and fun rules. It is a coming-of-age story wrapped in a Utopian novel. The outfits that I created are my ideas of how these people in the future could look like. Neither white and technological nor dystopian and scruff. But just colorful and free to express themselves in any way they want.

When did you realise you wanted to work in a field of (fashion) design?

I think it just kind of happened over the years. I was always drawing a lot, every day since I was a small kid. At some point I realized that I mostly drew fashion and outfit ideas, so I thought: “well, why not trying out this path then?”

What are so far your main achievements in your career?
One day a friend of mine told me that she got a lot of energy from my fashion show and found her inspiration for her own graduate collection. I felt truly touched by this. For some people, awards and prices and money are their biggest achievements. But I feel the proudest when I know that my fashion, my art touched some people.

What are your biggest struggles as a young designer/artist?
Working full-time in the fashion business at H&M. It takes a lot of effort, energy and discipline to get home and start working on my own projects. I think time management is crucial when you want to get things done.

What do you love the most about your profession?
When I come up with an idea, I work on it, refine it and at the end there are people that say “Rico, I love what you did.” Making people happy with design is what makes me happy.

What fascinates/inspires you and why?
I am fascinated by people in their everyday life. The way they interact, talk or do random things is the fuel to my imagination.

Finding your own distinctive voice can be difficult, where and how do you find your personal creativity (before you start designing/during the design process)?
When I start with a new idea, I take an afternoon just for myself and go to a café in the city. Sitting there and watching people passing by sounds boring to most people, but I truly enjoy it. Imagining their life, their stories, their joy and loss and struggles gives me the ideas to my little stories.


What challenges did you face during the design process?
Usually time management. I am a very ambitious person but I am also very bad at planning how much time I need for a project. Usually the last week before the deadline is filled with lots of coffe and neither sleep nor social life. But it’s the only way I can work so I wouldn’t change a thing about it.
What do you want to communicate with your work in general? My personal motto in life – and this sounds the cheesiest way possible – is to give love and get love. I hope that when you see my work, you smile for a second and just feel a bit better than before.

Why have you decided to participate at FASHIONCLASH Festival?
Why wouldn’t I? I love the excitement of a fashion show and it is a great opportunity to show my work to a bigger audience.

Does fashion make sense to you?
People use their senses to get ideas and create fashion. So therefore, any fashion makes sense – no matter how ridiculous it seems.

What are your thoughts on making ‘fashion’ more environmentally-friendly?
It is an ambitious goal to make the second-biggest cause of environmental pollution eco-friendly. If we rethink the way we shop and only purchase what we really need, we all are doing a big step towards that goal.

What are your thoughts on the senses in relation to the human body?
Stop thinking about your senses and use them instead! It feels good to feel your body working.

Do you think that fashion can contribute to a better world / better well-being, and what do you do to make a difference?
Definitely! If you feel good in the clothes you are wearing, you will automatically have a better mood and more confidence, too.

Instagram: @studioricoberger

All pictures by Team Peter Stigter

STEVENVANDERYT - FASHIONCLASH Festival 2017

Steven Van de Rijt is a promising Dutch designer who graduated in 2016 from the School for the Arts Utrecht (HKU). Since his days at the Summa College Eindhoven he developed an interest in fashion techniques and craftsmanship, but also on experimental fashion and couture. His work has been published in magazines such as Harper’s Bazaar UK and the upcoming Vogue Talents Italia SS17, as well as French director’s Jalil Lespert new movie.
He is showed his stunning new collection at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2017, the first collection under the label STEVENVANDERYT.

How would you define fashion?
How one defines fashion is really open to interpretation. For some it is what they wear, while for others it's what they see on the runways. I would define fashion as everything that has to do with clothing. But there are levels to fashion. Fashion is what we see in the street, but also what we see on the runways. These are two different levels that should inspire each other. We project the world we live in through our way of dressing. The creators of (high) fashion have leading parts in these views on the world through fashion and they work to inspire or demonstrate our world.

What fascinates/inspires you and why?
Global social issues and differences. Art, music and different cultures.

Finding your own distinctive voice can be difficult, where and how do you find your personal creativity (before you start designing/during the design process)?
I always start with a blank page. I find my personal fascination at that time and I start to create my concept. When creating the concept I also look for art, movies and music that can relate to it. As I start designing I only listen to music that shuts me off from the world and gets me in the mood. By doing that I get a mix of conceptual designs in line with my point of view and signature.

What challenges did you face during the design process?
When making experimental fashion it's always a challenge looking at what works and what is doable. Personally I grew up thinking everything is possible so I always try to make things work and look effortless and clean at the same time. But you need time to think about the best way to make experimental fashion look that effortless. And time is always a challenge when working with deadlines and interdisciplinary projects.

What do you want to communicate with your work in general?
I like to tell stories with my collections. I romanticize my concepts so that I can make bold statements with my work without it being misunderstood.

Can you tell us something about the project you presented at the FASHIONCLASH Festival? I'm really fascinated by the new Internet celebrities and the appreciation they get for what they do. They inspire their audience to go to extreme lengths to live up to their standards. With this collection I want to address the hardcore social media celebrity followers. The followers that really want to live the lives the celebrities live and go to the extremes to get there. To show the fact that they are out of touch with reality and make it obvious with their clothes. That they just want to have the things the celebs have and show it off all at once. It's not about how it’s worn, it's about that it's worn and that it's seen by many.

Why have you decided to participate at FASHIONCLASHFestival?
Because I think that FASHIONCLASHFestival is the best stage in the Netherlands for experimental fashion.

Does fashion makes sense to you?
Of course it does, it's the way for designers to create awareness.

What are your thoughts on making ‘fashion’ more environmentally-friendly?
We should do that. I'm not a hardcore eco designer but I pay attention to what I work with. I do think that it's a very good thing that we have this new wave of eco designers who come up with good ideas to change aspects of fashion but I think the real issue are the fashion giants who overproduce their products and use the most environmentally unfriendly processes to make their clothing. For example the crazy amount of water being used to get a jeans with washing effect. They need to change and consumers should be willing to pay more for clothing than the prices they are paying now at those big fashion warehouses were they pay almost nothing for what the wear and wear it one time, never to be worn again. Consumers need to realize the worth of fashion and clothing. Better pay more for something you really love, then just the best next hip thing.

Do you think that fashion can contribute to a better world / well-being, and what do you do to make a difference?
Yes it certainly can. We as the new generation designers should inspire the big companies to change their ways and views on fashion back to quality instead of money.

How does technology change your creation process?
Designers work with their hands and I like to keep it that way. It's nice to have technical help if you want to but I think it can never replace human hands let alone the creative human brain. Technology makes people lazy and dependent. What's more beautiful than to know the power and quality of your own craftsmanship and creative mind?

Read more about STEVENVANDERYT: stevenvanderyt.com

Photography: Team Peter Stigter



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